ONE PHOTO EVERY SURF

Post by local legend, Digby Ayton

Two years ago I made a rule to take a single film photo every time I went surfing. I gave myself this task because things had started to blur together. Perhaps I was just starting to lose my marbles but I found that aside from those standout sessions most moments from an everyday surf seemed to be getting lost amongst the hustle and bustle of day to day life.

What makes surfing so wonderful is that every surf is different and each surf is full of small, bright little moments that distinguish it from the last. I wanted to have a catalog that would bring back those memories which would otherwise be forgotten: The conversations in the car, the early mornings, the way the wind swung north just as we pulled into the carpark. Even when the waves are miserable, its bitterly cold and the rain is coming down hard from the west there is still something worth preserving. Looking back through the images now is a bit like reading through old pages of a dairy. All those little moments are preserved.

While in many ways this series is more of a personal project here are some of my favourites that I thought might be worth sharing.

@digbyayton www.digbyayton.com